after seven weeks eSwatini...

so there aren't ten this time, but i figured i'd just write about things as i experience them so they're fresher, rather than saving them up until i have ten new things. (because after all, who wants to hear about stale experiences?)

1. oh, the marvels of electricity! my family's main house always had power, but since i have my own little thatched-roof hut, i had been using a propane lamp at night. but a couple weeks ago their uncle who works for the swaziland electricity board came and rigged up my little hut, and now i have a lightbulb and a electrical socket! so i can read as late as i want at night and now can heat water for my bath with the electric kettle.

2. THUNDERSTORM! last sunday i experience my first swazi thunderstorm, and it was amazing. so far we've had quite a bit of rain, but it's been the it's-grey-and-chilly-and-drizzling-all-day type. this was entirely different. the day was hot and sunny but with really strong winds, and then then entire sky clouded over in a matter of minutes. then there were hurricane-force winds which actually ripped the tin roofing off a few houses in our area, as i saw the next morning. and the power was out so we ate supper by candlelight, and all went to bed early. but i watched the storm from my window for a long time. the lightening was regular, in a pattern. it would backlight the mountains in the distance and then a few seconds later strike right overhead. and the thunder would shake the valley. it was awesome to behold.

3. emaasi. is something very dear to swazi hearts. in fact, my whole family was thrilled that we were having it for supper. they poured thick rivers of the rich sour milk over the moutains of liphalishi (maize porridge) on their plates. and i was up for trying something new. but as i began eating, no matter how much i kept telling myself that this was really no different than yogurt, it still tasted like barf. after it became evident that i wasn't going to be able to level the pile on my plate, zinhle took pity on me and made me and three year old tema (who likes emaasi about as much as i do) peanut butter sandwiches.

4. two weekends ago, i was lucky enough to be able to attend a traditional swazi wedding. first of all, i got about five marriage proposals right off the bat from men who were already well into the celebrations (by which i mean incredibly drunk for the middle of the afternoon). then the dancing troupe started heading towards me, and i knew i was in for it. they swept me up and we moved en masse to grace various people with our rhythmic stomping. and i was front and center, of course. it was a really interesting experience though. the atmosphere was really fun and positive, and some of the dancing was amazing. there was one point in the ceremony where dancers went one by one into the center of the chanting semi-circle of emahiya*-clad women, and they did these terrific high kicks. if a girl was especially energetic or talented, a warrior clad in skins and carrying a shield would run up and kneel down before her in appreciation, or sometimes she would get oranges or money tossed at her feet.

*emahiya: traditional swazi women's attire, the classic style is a maroon length of cloth printed with a large floral design, sometimes it is blue and depicts the king's face. it is worn tied over the right shoulder with the left shoulder left bare.